INDIA

INSIDERS GUIDE TO NAVIGATING INDIAN CULTURE SHOCK & EXPERIENCING THE BEST OF RAJASTHAN

For good or for bad, there really is no place like India. It is confronting at times, with its overpopulation, mounds of trash, cows, goats and overall poverty but once you embrace the chaos you will begin to see and love the unique colour and vibrancy of this country. With its rich history, colourful festivals and amazing ancient forts, it really is an incredible country and well worth the adventure.

As a portrait photographer, I chose Rajasthan as my introduction to India, known for women clad in colourful sarees and men in red turbines, but it ended up being so much more than expected, with an unending array of historical and cultural wonders. This blog captures my personal highlights from a four-week tour on the Jaipur-Udaipur-Jodhpur trail, plus insider tips for Delhi and Agra, where you will most certainly start and end your trip. For those feeling a bit nervous about visiting India for the first time, this blog will also help navigate the culture shock with everything from what to eat, how to dress and where to stay.

 

DELHI

Delhi will most likely be your first introduction to the world of chaos that is India. It is the third largest city in the world, but I personally felt like it was the most habited place on the planet, with 20 million people crammed into one metropolis, along with cows, goats, pigs roaming the streets! My first tip on adjusting to the culture shock is to connect with a trusted local. I couldn’t have been more thankful for Rakesh, a friend, of a friend’s work colleague’s cousin who met me in Dehli and showed me around his home town. Yes, that’s right. This is one of those ‘six-degrees-of-separation’ moments that everyone should try before landing in India. Without Rakesh I wouldn’t have adjusted to my new surroundings as quickly and experienced two of my favourite things - good food and shopping.

Immerse yourself in the bustle of Old Delhi and taste authentic Indian Food with a Street Food tour

One of the key reasons to travel to India is to experience its food and with the huge number of people living in Delhi, it is no surprise that the food options are overwhelming vast with all kinds of flavours and level of spiciness. Many would be travellers are hesitant to indulge in its culinary delights because of stories of ‘Delhi Belly’ from travellers. However, one of the best ways to experience an authentic mix of Indian cuisines (plus come to grips with the intensity of Delhi), is to join a street food tour. Delhi Food Walks is run by a woman who founded India’s first foodie tour, and takes you through the centuries old lanes of Chandai Chowk bazaar and extensive network of street food stalls. By joining her street food tour you get to experience an integral part of India’s culinary heritage with local knowledge on which food vendors to eat from. Vendors that use fresh ingredients, bottled water and wear gloves while handling food. You will also learn a few cooking tips, like how to make your own Masala Chai. Now to be clear, every single Chai-Wallah has their own unique combination of spices they prefer for their Masala Chai, but these are the most common:

  • Ingredients: Fresh ginger, cardamon, cinnamon, cloves and star anise. Plus, black tea and milk.
  • Technique: Lightly crush the whole spices before tossing into a pot of water with the black tea. Use your stove top to boil and simmer the 1/2 cup water with the spices, then set for 10 minutes. Then add 1/2 milk of your choosing, and bring to the boil and simmer once again. (NB: boiling and simmering is the secret to good chai!). Strain and serve with a little honey.
NB: The ‘at home’ alternative of adding powder to heated milk from your espresso machine is nothing like the real thing.

Dress like a local and have a few sarees and punjabi suits made for your Rajasthan adventure.

You will see a lot of colourful sarees when you travel through Rajasthan, and if you are anything like me, you will want one as a ‘keep sake’. As you browse the exquisite 6 metre fabrics on sale at a local market or up-market Delhi shopping centre you will soon realise why this ancient Indus Valley Civilisation dress continues to be a national symbol for India. Many of the sarees are hand embroidered and take up to 10 days to create the simplest of sarees. The shopping location Rakesh took me to was Hauz Khass Village located in New Delhi. Here you can find multiple stores by famous Indian designers where everything is exquisite. In my case I was also looking for fabrics to make western style clothing out of, but if you’re after a more of a ‘tourist’ purchase then you can wait until your Rajasthan tour starts as there will be plenty of local markets to buy your saree from. For those interested, I did in fact wear my expense ($100 AUD) emerald saree back home in Australia to a Gala event!

The other traditional dress which is a must for your Rajasthan adventure is the punjabi suit. Due to lack of sufficient planning for my trip I ended up needing multiple suits tailored in Delhi before the tour began. I had been informed that the best time to visit Rajasthan is in winter (October to March), as in summer the heat becomes too unbearable for walking around attractions. What I didn’t anticipate, however, was that India could have a winter that reached into negative centigrade. Having packed only light-weight clothing, I needed to find a way to keep warm and the solution was to have Punjabi suits made and to line them with thermal underwear. It also turns out that dressing like a local is the best way to blend in as you less like ‘someone fresh off the boat’ – code for naive tourist who can easily be taken advantage of by a local store owner pimp. India is also a conservative country, so it is important to wear something that isn’t too revealing, so even if you’re visiting over the summer months wearing a punjabi around town is the best way to go.

Sleep like kings and queens at the Royal Heritage Haveli & ride home on your magic carpet.

Jaipur - Pink City

Surrounded by 3,000 acres of jungle, this former maharaja’s hunting lodge is the hidden gem of Jaipur. You will feel like royalty as you stay in your own private suite with sandstone walled gardens, and dip your toe into the tranquil waters of the pool and water features.

Do venture out, however. The city of Jaipur itself is easy to walk around and although busy and chaotic in usual Indian fashion, it’s reasonably clean and safe for the capital city of Rajasthan. Walk the brilliant pink facade of the labyrinth of streets from Johari bazaar to the Hawa Mahal with its stained glass windows with many tiny viewing platforms originally made for royal ladies to watch the parades and festivals happening on the streets without being seen. Jaipur is also a good place to pick-up a souvenir or two as it’s the shopping mecca for Asian designers and carpet exporters.

While you shop and explore, you will most likely be asked for your photograph. Simply politely decline and they will leave you alone. In fact, as sad as this sounds, I recommend not engaging with anyone on the streets as a matter of personal safety. Not even a hello. Just walk on and ignore. This was very hard for me to get used to but it is a must. Otherwise you will be accosted into a store you didn’t want to go to or worse.

Walk the blue streets of Jodhpur in search of the perfect photograph and end your day with a puppet show at Vivanta Taj Hotel.

Jodpur - Blue City

Jodhpur - the Blue City - is the second largest city in Rajasthan, with many bustling colourful bazaars spread around the 15th-century Mehrangarh Fort in the centre of the city. Once a palace for Maharaja Sardar Singh, the fort is now a museum, displaying weapons, paintings and elaborate royal furnishings. It is also the perfect place to overlook the blue coloured city and capture the quintessential India ‘street life’ image. The ‘Blue Door’ image in my India gallery was taken here and you will no doubt find capture your own piece of colourful Rajasthan while exploring this captivating city.

As Jodhpur is a tourist city, there is also an unending selection of entertainment. My selection for the night was to attend a puppet show at Vivanta Taj Hotel. The tradition of ‘Kathputi’ puppets dates back more than a thousand years, with these hand-made wooden puppets decorated in colourful clothing entertaining many a king and queen. The combination of the agile hands of the puppeteers and the expressive facial features of the puppets makes for a comical experience and you might also feel inspired to walk away with your own ‘Kathuputi’ puppet as a keep sake :-)

Lounge around in luxury at the Udapur City Palace and Taj Lake Palace.

Udapur - Lake City

Spectacular Udapur is easily my favourite place in Rajasthan and I’m not alone in my opinion. Udapur was voted the ‘best tourism city in India’ but the World Traveller Magazine, and it also known as the most romantic city in India.

The elegance and charm of this Lake City is the result of a series of man-made lakes, and imperial palaces, one of which is located in the centre of the main lake, Lake Pichola. The City Palace is the central jewel of Udapur, and staying there for the night is not outside the western budget. It is the perfect place to drink the atmosphere of the city and watch the particularly beautiful sunset. It is an easy boat ride over to the palace and from there you can simply relax from the hustle and bustle that is often life in India.

AGRA

Marvel at the magical allure of the Taj Mahal as it’s bathed in early morning light

This iconic white marble mausoleum is so stunning it’s best left until last. Its majesty becomes even more apparent once you’ve spent a bit of time in India. The Taj Mahal itself is surrounded by dusty, chaotic and intensely busy streets, but nothing can detract from experiencing its wonder. The best time to go to not only beat the crowds but also see the Taj Mahal at its best light, is first thing in the morning. Wondering around this enormous mausoleum, listening to the story behind its contractions is endlessly fascinating. In short, it was built by Shah Jahan in remembrance of his favourite wife who passed away giving birth to their 14th child. It took 20,000 workers from India, Peria and the Ottoman Empire to contract the mausoleum made of white marble inlaid with semi-precious stones.

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