JAPAN

EXPLORE JAPAN WITH EXPATRIATE INSIGHT & LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Japan’s culture is shaped by its rapid transition from isolation to globalism. During the Edo period, Japan enforced a strict isolation policy, where no-one could come into or go out of the country. This resulted in a distinct Japanese culture. Even now the culture and heritage of this endlessly fascinating country is very prominent. You find yourself in a fusion of old worldly charm meets modern Western practices, where everything is so different and foreign. If you’d like to brush up on your Japanese history to help put things into context, there are plenty of interesting documentaries to choose from. One personal favourite is “Princes of the Yen”.

My personal experience of Japan was via the Land of the Rising Sun Tour. However, many of the recommendations below actually came from either my expatriate friends living in Tokyo, and my good friend Takako. Plus, there’s a little local knowledge provided curtsy of Tokyo Free Guide Club! Yes, that’s right, you can explore Tokyo like a local with your own personal (& free) guide. You will also find that across Japan the locals are extremely helpful. Look lost and confused for only a few seconds and someone will invariably approach you and offer to help out. With the tips below and a warm and welcoming people you are sure to have an amazing trip.

 

Ditch the diet & eat your way around Japan!

Reflecting on my time in Japan it is no wonder that I put on a few kilograms - experiencing the Japanese culture is all about food!

RESTAURANTS

Sukiyaki or “shabu shabu” restaurants: These places will sell you set menus of meat and vegetables that will be cooked in a big pot on a heat plate in the middle of the table in front of you. Sukiyaki is a dry style of cooking, while shabu shabu is cooked in a broth (you drag the meat backwards and forwards with your chopsticks to cook it and Japanese think this movement makes the sound “shabu shabu”).

Izakaya restaurants: These are like Japanese tapas places. You often have an iPad set up at the table and order lots of small share dishes and drinks as you go.

Yakitori restaurants: Quite similar to Korean BBQ, these places do grilled meat kebabs and include beef, chicken, pork with different sauces and side dishes. You can also get chicken hearts, livers, etc and various cooled seafoods if you are feeling adventurous.

Okonomiyaki (pancake) restaurants: Often these places have a hotplate in the middle of the table and make the ‘pancake” (more like an omelette) in front of you. One of the best places for Okonomiyaki is Hiroshima, famous for the egg, cabbage, soba noodle, and seafood variety.

Kaiseki Dori restaurants: This is one of the most ancient and respected cuisines in Japan. It was originally created for Monks who were only permitted to eat certain seasonal foods. To make the mealtime more interesting, they created multi course artistic meals. It’s like a degustation menu and usually goes for between 5-10 courses using all seasonal foods. It truly is a treat but can be quite expensive and difficult to find somewhere. It is helpful to go with someone who speaks Japanese as there are some incredible stories behind the ingredients and the way they are presented.

MEALS ON THE RUN

Convenience Stores: Convenience Stores in Japan sell almost everything and are usually competitively priced. You can ask them to heat up any of the meals that are in the fridges - eg dumplings, noodles, etc

Food Halls: Most major train stations are owned and operated by a department store and in the basement they often have some incredible food halls where you can buy pre-made meals.

Ramen shops: Ramen noodle places (along with other style shops) will often have ‘vending machines’ to sell the food. You choose what you order from the machine, insert your money and the machine will give you a ticket which you take to the kitchen ‘hutch’ who will prepare your food. The most common places for this sort of thing is Ramen, Udon and Kastsu-Don places. Kastsu-Don is like a chicken schnitzel served on a bed of rice and covered in a scrambled egg - my favourite!

TOKYO

There are many fascinating sides to Tokyo, from museums, ancient temples, neighbourhood backstreets lined with restaurants and karaoke bars. Tokyo is also incredibly easy to navigate with a super efficient public transport network.

Hop-on & hop-off the Yamonate train line to see the best of Tokyo

When you arrive into Tokyo, it’s a good idea to buy a ‘Suica’ or ‘Pasmo’. These are like the Opal card in Australia and allow you to jump on and off transport in Tokyo. You can lead money onto the card at any ticket machine, and there is a 500Yen deposit on the card, which you can get refunded by returning your card to one of the station offices when you leave.

The Yamonate (green) train is a bit like the circle line in London. It does a loop around Tokyo and is a good option for getting around Tokyo easily.

  • First stop - Meiji-Jingu Shrine: Arrive at Harajuku station around 11am and walk through Yoyogi park down to the Meiji-Jingu shrine. One of the most popular shrines for weddings and other traditional occasions, it is the perfect place to start to get a feel for this unique culture.
  • Harajuku - Make your way back to Harajuku and walk along the big boulevard called Omete Sando that leads in the other direction to the from Harajuku station. This area is full of high-end shopping but in the alley ways there are quaint boutique stores and interesting restaurants. It is also the place famous for the ‘Harajuku Girls’ - women dressed up in outlandish outfits hanging out on the boulevard or near the station.
  • Shibuya: Not far from Harajuku is Shibuya, the home to the busiest crossing in the world. It can be quite cool to stop and watch the crossing as thousands of people cross every few minutes.
  • Last stop - Piss Alley: Make your way to Shinjuku, the largest train station probably in the world. This place is very easy to get lost in. Near the northwest tracks there’s a laneway “Omoide Yokocho”, which translates to memory lane, but is colloquially called ‘piss alley’ by the local foreigners. This is a tiny laneway with yakitori restaurant - definitely worth going to. Not cheap, but delicious and a fabulous experience.

Eat sashimi at the fish markets, take part in a tea ceremony & check out Studio Ghibili

  • Tsukji Fish Markets: If you feel like an early start, head to the Tsukiji fish markets and see the trade happening of the busiest fish market in the world. You can also have a fresh sashimi or sushi breakfast at one of the restaurants on the site, or learn how to make your own!
  • Studio Ghibli Museum: Tokyo is home to one of the biggest Japanese exports - animation! Studio Ghibli is for the more discerning animation fans, providing an interactive experience of many of Japan’s most celebrated films, but you need to book tickets to access the museum. I personally loved the Red Turtle which was released with I was in Japan. Beautifully animated (of course) and dialogue free! A very Japanese experience.
  • Hamarinku Park: A lovely park in the middle of Tokyo where you can get involved in a Japanese tea ceremony. You can catch a boat up the river to Asakusa, which is the old part of Toyko. Here you can stop by Sensu-Ji, the city’s oldest temple - founded almost 1,400 years ago. Summer is typically filled with festivals and parades, where people drag floats through the street in traditional costume.

You may want to have a look at what is happening on one of these websites:

www.gotokyp.org/eventlist/en/list

www.toyoweekender.com/events-calendar

HAKONE, TAKAYAMA & NIKKO

Relax at a traditional hot spring. Top pick - Harkone Onsen

Not only did I eat my way around Japan I also onsen my way around, from Nikko, to Hakone, to Takayama! Japan has been onsen bathing since the 18th century, so they know how to pamper you. The natural hot springs are known for their healing properties but for me, onsen bathing was all about relaxation. Yes, the etiquette is to bath naked but you strangely forget that you’re not wearing anything. The bath is so hot it is completely relaxing, and ambience so calming, that you just melt into the moment. Of the three locations, Harkone was my favourite as the views of the national park were spectacular, but you really can’t go wrong. Onsens are always set among nature even if it’s a garden rather than within a national park.

Spend at least one night in a Ryokan. Top pick - Takayama Ryokan

One of the best places to experience a traditional Japanese inn, known as a Ryokan, is Takayama. This charming Edo period village located near the Japanese Alps, is famous for Ryokan’s and is the perfect town to experience a piece of traditional Japan. In addition to strolling the quaint centre of town, make sure you make your way up the hill to a really cool outdoor museum. The museum is a replica of a traditional Edo town, with thatched-roof architecture, flowing ponds and manicured gardens. Each house is like a mini museum, with displays of house-hold items, traditional tools etc.

Hike the trails in the national parks & discover many hidden treasures. Top pick - Nikko National Park

Nikko has been a sacred to the Japanese people since the middle of 8th Century and has an abundance of beautiful shrines and temples interwoven into the picturesque landscape. There are many hiking trails within the national park that lead to a shrine. The largest is Toshu-gu Shrine, the resting place for Tokugawa shogun who was the most powerful rulers of the country.

HIROSHIMA

Hiroshima is a must visit destination when in Japan - not only important learnings for all, but also because of its surrounding natural beauty.

Stop & reflect on why the world needs to abolish atomic warfare

The atomic bomb attack of 1945 signalled the beginning of the nuclear era, and Hiroshima’s Peace Memorial Park and Museum are an important reminder to never to allow mass destruction and human suffering on such a horrific scale to occur again. Be prepared for an emotional but important visit to the museum, and if you need some reflective time afterwards, head to the serene Shukkeien Gardens.

Cruise over to Miyajima island, to experience one of the most scenic places in all Japan

An hour’s train/ferry ride from the centre of town, is the enchanting island of Miyajima. The island is home to the venerable Shinto shrine of Itsukshima, and famous for its huge bright orange gate (tori) that rises out of the sea. There also the lovely Momaji Park (known as Maple Valley), where it’s possible to walk or take the cable car up to the top of Mt Misen. The scenery from up high is spectacular and definitely worth staying and exploring for an hour or more.

Halloween in Hiroshima - who would have thought?!

I happened to be in Hiroshima during Halloween and experiencing this very American festive in Japan was surprisingly immense! The Japanese love nothing more than to get dressed up into bizarre crazy kitten outfits, girly waitresses or a cartoon character, and there is no better time than Halloween! For a photographer, it was totally cool to join in all the fun and walk the streets asking complete strangers if I could photograph them! Everyone was more than happy to oblige and in many instances my photograph was also requested, despite lacking a costume, well so I thought!

KYOTO

Kyoto is regarded as the cultural heart of Japan and is one of my favourite places. There is so much to explore and experience. Cultural landmarks, historical sites, abundance of traditional arts and literature and of course this is the place where you can catch a glimpse of the most revered entertainer of all - the Geisha.

Unashamedly walk the old town in search of the quintessential Geisha pic, or give up and hire your own outfit!

Geisha’s are hired to attend parties and private gatherings, and this exclusivity means they are not a common sight. Not only do you need to pay thousands of dollars to be in their company, in many cases you must also be invited by another person. For a tourist in search of the quintessential Japanese photograph, money nor personal connections was not an option. I therefore resorted to stalking the winding streets of Gion late in the afternoon. Unfortunately, the swift movement of a Geisha making her way to the wealthy elite as the sun goes down doesn’t make for the perfect image capture. There is a chance you could come across a Geisha out walking in the midday sun, but make sure you can spot the difference between a bone fide Geisha and a tourist in a hired Geisha costume! Tip, look for the white markings at the back of the neck. But, sometimes no markings are needed at all - Westerners do look quite ridiculous in their hired Geisha outfits, no distinguishing tips required :-)

Walk the path of Philosophy

Kyoto is a city that lends itself to walking. You can walk the ‘path of Philosophy’ that links Ginkaky, the Temple of the Silver Pavillion, with Nanzen-ji Temple. This walk also extends to the south through the ‘old-town’ area of Kiyamizu-dera (Temple of Clear Water). There is also the Kinkakuji Temple and Higashi Honganji Temple. Nijo Castle is also a must visit. Built in 1602 it was the residence of Tokugawa Shoguns who had power over Japan during the Edo period. The castle grounds are extensive and the palace consists of multiple separate buildings, with rooms covered in tatami mats and featuring elegantly decorated ceilings.

Take a selfie (with a selfie stick!) at two of the most recognisable places in Kyoto- Arashiyma Bamboo Grove & Tori Tunnels

A short train ride from the centre of Kyoto is the tori tunnels of Fushimi-Inari-Taisha Shrine and Kinakay-ji Temple. This place is possibly the most impressive places in all Kyoto. Walking through thousands of vibrant orange tore gates is a photographer’s dream!

Arashiyma Bamboo Grove is not far from Fushimi and is also one of Kyoto’s most photographed sights, but like much of Kyoto no picture can truly capture what it’s like to walk among the towering stalks of bamboo - it’s so perfect that it’s unlike any normal forest walk. You can access it directly from the main street of Arashiyama, near the Tenryu-ji Temple. Exploring the surrounding area of Arashiyama is also lovely. There are many lovely shops and restaurants to relax in and enjoy.